Do not sand between coats.Īfter 24 hours (dry time may be extended due to heavy application, low temperatures or high humidity), complete your project by applying a clear protective finish. Allow the stain to dry 8 to 10 hours between coats. To darken the color, apply additional coats of Minwax® Gel Stain repeating directions for application of first coat. Wait 3 minutes and remove the excess stain with a clean cloth, wiping in the direction of the grain. Do not thin.Īlways test stain on a scrap piece or hidden area of the wood to verify desired color.Īpply a liberal amount of stain evenly with a brush or clean cloth. Stir Minwax® Gel Stain until creamy before and occasionally during use. To help ensure uniform acceptance of stain color and beautiful results, pretreat the wood with Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner following label directions. Sand the wood in the direction of the grain using a fine-grade sandpaper (#220) until smooth. Surface must be dry, clean, and free of dirt, grease, glue, and existing coatings before staining. Its unique non-drip formula makes application easy for vertical surfaces.Ĭolors wood and non-wood surfaces, such as metal, veneer, and fiberglass, in a consistent manner. I pretty much hate my solid mahogany front door.Minwax® Gel Stain was created to give you complete control over the staining process and to assist you in achieving stunning results. The sidelites, too, with the teak brightener, are looking more aged than stained. I am going to let it weather, unsealed, for a couple years. It toned down the yellow, and I think I will be able to deal with it again. Well, for the first time, that dumb door doesn't invoke, "God I hate that door" from me. I went and got my special walnut, that doesn't have any red in it (who wants orange!?) and gave the door a coat. While working on the sidelites, was also busy hating my front door. I don't know where any of you are getting the red in mahogany, but I'm not. I like it and am looking for something to seal it with, that won't yellow. The 3rd picture is of the sister door cleaned and scrubbed with this brigtener. (First picture of the door with the brown stain sanded off front door Still hadn't gotten into the detail.) I used it on the still chocolate sidelights of my stripped, still-yellow front door. Last summer, I bought some marine teak brightener and cleaner. But Mahogany, like cherry somewhat, will oxidize and darken, so keep that in mind. So a lot more info than you might need, but you might want to check out the Minwax Special Walnut. I'm going to take the door off when its warmer and see if Citristrip can suck the yellow color out of the other side of the door and start over. I'm going to try it on the inside of the door I screwed up to see how it could look. A single coat just gives the grain some depth without making it look man-cave-ish. I have discovered that special walnut doesn't have any red in it, which I really love. Not gray from stain, but being weathered.Īll that said, I'm using some white oak in my kitchen. (I'm here to tell you with 15 antique doors as testimony! Raw wood! Digression.) I used it on the sister mahogany side door and it came out a GORGEOUS grayed wood brown. I learned about Citristrip, which can suck stain right out of the wood. So does polyurethane, BTW.įast forward again. I read and read, and ended up with Cabots Australian Timber Oil, which was supposed to bring out the grain and seal it well. I stripped it and sanded it down (before I discovered Citristrip, sadly). I wish he'd been even snotty and said to me, "You have to wipe stain off." Because that door looked painted for-EVEH.įast forward several years with him gone, and me having learned enough to be very dangerous. He liked an Olympic something that looked absolutely chocolate. He wanted a dark door, so I went and got different stains. When we got our Mahogany doors, my now-ex was in his passive aggressive stage.
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